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Whether to brush or roll stain on wood depends on the project and your preference. Brushing is ideal for smaller, intricate areas and offers more control over the application, ensuring thorough coverage and penetration into the wood's grain. 

Conversely, rolling is efficient for more extensive, flat surfaces and can save time. However, it is not always the best fit for textured or uneven wood. Some projects may benefit from combining both methods, using a brush for detail work and a roller for broader areas. Ultimately, the choice between brushing and rolling depends on the specific requirements of your staining project.

You shouldn't paint a metal fence. Painting doesn't necessarily damage a corrugated metal fence, but these types of fences are meant to flex, and paint can easily chip and break off. Latex paints can address this issue, but those tend not to be very weather-resistant. Certain paints can trap moisture in the corrugation, which can rust the metal and lead to corrosion. And finally, if you paint a copper fence, it won't patina, which is one of the main reasons people buy copper.  

Yes, you can limewash surfaces other than brick. Plaster, stone, stucco, and concrete can all also be limewashed. Any porous surface that will absorb the wash is a good candidate for limewash, although it won’t help much with waterproofing. If you choose to limewash over paint, you’ll need to prep before applying it to avoid a powdery, chalky finish. Shiny surfaces like metal or glass can’t absorb limewash, so it’s not suited for these.

Maintain your wattle fence by inspecting it at least twice per year for loose weaving and degrading branches. Replace any seriously degraded sections, ensure water drains properly around the posts, and trim any sprouting branches if you used green wood. If you notice the weave loosening, you can often tighten it by gently pushing down on the top branches. You can also apply a natural wood preservative every two to three years to extend the fence's lifespan.