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Brush Chipping FAQs, answered by experts

If you want to take the decomposition process into your hands to speed it up, water and sunlight are key. Of course, you can’t control sunlight yourself, but you can rake leaves into piles in sunny spots in your yard. In terms of using water, you can also moisten the decomposing leaves with water, whether by pouring some from a watering can from time to time or using a hose to moisten them.

If you don’t have too many fallen leaves, one option is to leave them in place. They’ll eventually decompose, adding vital nutrients to the soil. But if you have a thick layer of leaves smothering your lawn, you’ll want to either mulch them or bag them up for removal. If you choose to collect and bag your leaves, check with your local municipality on any specific guidelines to dispose of them. Many cities offer curbside pickup if the leaves are disposed of in yard waste bags or containers. 

In general, you can prune up to one third of the height of most shrubs without damaging them. There are a few exceptions to this rule: Pine shrubs, for example, can’t be trimmed below the point of new growth without damaging them.

The growth of tall fescue grass often causes clumps of grass in your lawn. Avoid pulling up the clumps, as it won’t effectively remove them. Instead, dig out clumps and their roots when you notice them early in the growing season. Herbicides can also treat grass clumps, but they can also affect other plants you might not want to kill, so use them sparingly and always follow manufacturer instructions.

Generally, it is not necessary to remove old mulch before applying a new layer. As organic mulch breaks down, it enriches the soil with nutrients. However, you should remove the old layer if it shows signs of fungus or disease, which can be common in moist areas, or if the total depth is already too thick. Avoid letting the total mulch depth exceed 3 inches, as this can harm plant roots. If you do remove old, disease-free mulch, it can be added to a compost pile.

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