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Structural insulated panels and rigid foam boards have the highest R-value of any insulation that contractors commonly use, with R-values reaching up to around 8.0. These types of insulation are best in extremely cold climates, but they’re generally preferred for new construction, as they can be challenging to retrofit. Blown-in and loose fill insulation provide the next best insulative value, provided the installation is done properly. It’s important to choose an insulation type that meets your needs based on climate, as maximizing R-value may not always be financially worthwhile if you live in a moderate climate.

On average, insulating an attic costs about $2,500, with a typical range of $1,500 to $3,500. The final price often depends on the attic's size, with costs generally falling between $1 to $3 per square foot. For example, insulating a 1,800-square-foot attic would likely cost between $1,800 and $5,400.

If the project involves removing old insulation, this can add an average of $900 to the total cost, bringing a full removal and reinsulation project to around $3,000.

Several factors influence the overall cost:

• Insulation Type: Prices per square foot vary significantly by material.

• Reflective: $0.50–$1.50

• Blown-in: $1–$4

• Batt: $2–$4

• Loose-fill: $2–$5

• Spray foam: $2–$5

• Structural insulated panels (SIPs): $4–$7

• Project Complexity: Factors like sealing air leaks, poor attic accessibility, and required inspections can add to the cost.

• Removal Issues: The discovery of mold, asbestos, or pests during the removal of old insulation can substantially increase the price.

Yes, you can install insulation behind drywall yourself, but only if your walls are not finished. If your studs are exposed, installing fiberglass insulation in roll or batt form is very straightforward and just requires a few tools and some safety equipment. If your walls are already finished and you’re looking to add insulation, it’s better to hire a professional, as you’ll likely need blown-in insulation, which can be dangerous to work with and a challenge to get into the proper areas in your wall voids.

It’s best not to install a radiant barrier directly under insulation because it requires an air gap on at least one side to work properly. Instead, you should install the radiant barrier over your existing insulation to create an air space to reflect the radiant heat.