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Fence Painting questions, answered by experts

Rags used with oil-based stains are highly flammable and can spontaneously combust in the right conditions. To reduce the fire risk, throw them in a metal container after use and add rocks on top to secure them. Add an inch of water and seal the container. Take the rags in the container to a hazardous waste factory as soon as possible.

Yes, you can waterproof any wood that has not already been treated. A good way to test this is to splash some water on it. If the water starts to bead up, the wood is treated and most likely doesn’t need another coating.

The general consensus is that two coats of stain are required and since the cedar is siding, a third coat of sealant is always a good idea. This helps protect the wood and stain, so you won’t need to resand and restain for at least a decade. Each stain after the first will darken the wood, so be aware of that when choosing a colored stain.

On most untreated wood fences, there is no need to sand before treating. You typically only need to sand if there’s an old coat of paint or stain on your fence. If you do need to sand off a previous paint or protective coating (like an old stain or sealant), use medium-grit sandpaper.

For homes in areas with extreme weather, high heat, or intense sun exposure, high-quality acrylic paint is the best option. Acrylic paint is durable, resistant to both heat and cold, and provides a protective barrier with excellent UV resistance. For best results, look for acrylics that contain natural earth pigments, which are better suited for resisting sun damage. While oil-based paint is also durable, it can be prone to fading in high heat and can become too viscous to apply easily in cold temperatures. Additionally, choosing a neutral or light color like gray, beige, or white can help, as these colors absorb less heat than darker shades.

The Outing, MN homeowners’ guide to fence painting services

From average costs to expert advice, get all the answers you need to get your job done.