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Last update on August 13, 2025

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Structural Engineering questions, answered by experts

The easiest way to tell if a wall is load bearing is to check if it’s an exterior wall or if it runs perpendicular to the joists above and below it (or parallel to beams). Exterior walls are almost always load-bearing, and walls that run under beams or parallel to them are also usually load-bearing. There are exceptions to these rules, and walls that don’t fit into these categories can still be load-bearing. If you’re unsure, hire a structural engineer to look at your home to assess whether or not the wall is structural.

Yes, ceiling joists are typically load-bearing. However, their primary function is to support the weight of the ceiling and loads applied to it, like lighting fixtures and ceiling fans. They can also help support the roof, especially if they’re part of truss systems. Remember, the load-bearing capacity of ceiling joists depends on the material, size, and space between them. 

The early stages of building a house are harder than the later stages; laying the foundation and framing the house are two of the most challenging steps. However, it varies for everyone. Some people have difficulty installing HVAC, plumbing, and electricity, while others find it harder to plan the house and secure the necessary permits. 

The 10 10 rule describes the formula most contractors use to determine how much to charge for a job. Allowing for 10% overhead above the total projected cost to do the work and 10% profit sets a contractor up for success, even if there are delays or other problems on the project. This formula isn’t a hard-and-fast rule, but it is a ballpark figure to begin with when estimating your expenses on a job.

First, most contractors will have a structural engineer create a report and plan for your project to ensure it’s safe to cut into the load-bearing wall. The contractor will then excavate around the wall, if necessary, measure the opening—allowing for additional space to fit and level the door, and then cut the doorway out. They will likely install a steel lintel as a header over the door for support. Once the doorway is cut out, they’ll demolish the concrete using sledge hammers and masonry chisels, clean up the surrounding concrete, and seal around the door with masonry mortar. 

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