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Structural Engineering questions, answered by experts

Most lenders and homeowner’s insurance companies don’t mandate a structural engineer’s inspection, so in most cases, it’s not required. However, it’s a good idea to have one done anyway to ensure you know what you’re buying. You can use the report to carry out repairs after closing or even to negotiate the sale price before closing.

Structural engineers draw structural plans, which include detailed drawings of the structural components of a home only. Complete house plans will require additional work from an architect or draftsperson, whose drawings will take the structural drawings into account. They’ll also include more details about the finishing materials and layout of a home, including everything from roofing and flooring materials to the position of furniture, light fixtures, switches, and plumbing fixtures.

A 4-inch-thick concrete slab can support around 4,000 pounds per square foot if a contractor reinforces the slab with rebar, while that same slab without reinforcements will support closer to 1,000 pounds. For the purposes of a patio, 4 inches in thickness without reinforcement should suffice unless you’re installing heavy kitchen equipment or a hot tub on it. In those cases, reinforcing your slab and sticking with 4 inches of thickness should provide plenty of strength.

The average cost to hire a structural engineer is about $550, with prices generally ranging from $200 to $1,500. Structural engineers may charge a flat rate, by the project, by square footage, or an hourly rate, which is typically between $100 and $250. Many jobs, such as inspections and structural calculations, are billed at a flat rate, which often falls between $300 and $800. The final cost depends on several factors, including the project's type, scope, size, complexity, ease of access for inspection, and your geographic location.

The easiest way to tell if a wall is load bearing is to check if it’s an exterior wall or if it runs perpendicular to the joists above and below it (or parallel to beams). Exterior walls are almost always load-bearing, and walls that run under beams or parallel to them are also usually load-bearing. There are exceptions to these rules, and walls that don’t fit into these categories can still be load-bearing. If you’re unsure, hire a structural engineer to look at your home to assess whether or not the wall is structural.

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