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Ideally, you can add new insulation to your existing insulation. However, some circumstances require you to remove old insulation before adding any new insulation: 

• If the insulation is over 15 years old

• If the insulation is wet or moldy

• If it is vermiculite insulation

• If you see signs of pest infestation

Removing old insulation is best left to a pro who can safely dispose of potential moldy or asbestos-ridden insulation.

On average, insulating an attic costs about $2,500, with a typical range of $1,500 to $3,500. The final price often depends on the attic's size, with costs generally falling between $1 to $3 per square foot. For example, insulating a 1,800-square-foot attic would likely cost between $1,800 and $5,400.

If the project involves removing old insulation, this can add an average of $900 to the total cost, bringing a full removal and reinsulation project to around $3,000.

Several factors influence the overall cost:

• Insulation Type: Prices per square foot vary significantly by material.

• Reflective: $0.50–$1.50

• Blown-in: $1–$4

• Batt: $2–$4

• Loose-fill: $2–$5

• Spray foam: $2–$5

• Structural insulated panels (SIPs): $4–$7

• Project Complexity: Factors like sealing air leaks, poor attic accessibility, and required inspections can add to the cost.

• Removal Issues: The discovery of mold, asbestos, or pests during the removal of old insulation can substantially increase the price.

Three signs that you need crawl space insulation are drafts, high energy bills, and mold. Drafts can start in crawl spaces and cause hot or cold air to spread to the rest of your home through holes in the floors and walls. And even if your entire home is well-insulated, you can still feel an unchecked draft from your crawl space and in your utility bill. Uninsulated crawl spaces can let in air and moisture, and because they’re built directly on the ground and difficult to dry out, they are hotspots for mold and mildew.

When installing board and batten siding, make sure there is wall sheathing and a moisture-resistant barrier installed. Behind that sheathing should be plywood or OSB for you to nail the boards and battens into. If there isn’t plywood or OSB, you can install vertical furring strips at 1½- to 2-foot intervals to nail the boards and battens to.