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To determine if your ceiling box can support a fan, you must check if it is specifically fan-rated. Manufacturers are required to indicate this on the box itself. You may need to remove the existing light fixture to look inside the ceiling box for an inscription stating it is rated for fan use. If you do not see this confirmation, the box is likely not strong enough and must be replaced with a fan-rated junction box. For a proper and safe installation, you should also use a fan brace to secure the new box between the ceiling joists, which provides the necessary support for the fan's weight and motion.

Identifying the source of noises is your first step to soundproofing a room without overspending. Generally, sound comes from inside or outside of the house. Inside noises include creaking floors, living noises like TVs in the living room, cooking sounds, or kids being kids. External noises generally include incremental weather, disturbing neighbors, and street traffic. Inside noises require you to soundproof floors, ceilings, and doors, whereas outside noises may require you to soundproof your attic, windows, and walls facing the streets.

Fan power is measured by CFM, or cubic feet per minute. For every 1,000 feet of square footage in your attic, you need a minimum of 700 CFM. Steeper roofs may need larger fans or about 840 CFM.  You can figure the size of attic fan you need by multiplying the square footage of your attic floor by 0.7. (multiply by 1.2 for a steep roof and 1.15 for a dark roof). That number is the CFM required for your fan to run efficiently.

If the fan doesn’t have a switch, connect the white wire from the ceiling to the white wire from the fan; connect the green wire to the ground wire; connect both black wires; and connect both blue wires. If yours has a switch, the white and green wires are connected the same way. However, connect the ceiling’s red wire to the light’s black wire and the ceiling’s black wire to the fan’s black wire.