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Structural insulated panels and rigid foam boards have the highest R-value of any insulation that contractors commonly use, with R-values reaching up to around 8.0. These types of insulation are best in extremely cold climates, but they’re generally preferred for new construction, as they can be challenging to retrofit. Blown-in and loose fill insulation provide the next best insulative value, provided the installation is done properly. It’s important to choose an insulation type that meets your needs based on climate, as maximizing R-value may not always be financially worthwhile if you live in a moderate climate.

Radiant barriers and insulation serve different purposes, so one is not inherently better than the other. Radiant barriers reflect radiant heat, helping keep spaces cool, especially in hot climates, while insulation slows heat transfer through conduction. For optimal energy efficiency, it’s best to use both together. 

Radiant barriers can enhance the performance of insulation by preventing heat gain in the summer and heat loss in the winter. The choice between them depends on specific climate conditions and the building’s design requirements.

When installing board and batten siding, make sure there is wall sheathing and a moisture-resistant barrier installed. Behind that sheathing should be plywood or OSB for you to nail the boards and battens into. If there isn’t plywood or OSB, you can install vertical furring strips at 1½- to 2-foot intervals to nail the boards and battens to.

Yes, you can install insulation behind drywall yourself, but only if your walls are not finished. If your studs are exposed, installing fiberglass insulation in roll or batt form is very straightforward and just requires a few tools and some safety equipment. If your walls are already finished and you’re looking to add insulation, it’s better to hire a professional, as you’ll likely need blown-in insulation, which can be dangerous to work with and a challenge to get into the proper areas in your wall voids.