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The cost of masonry work varies widely depending on the type of masonry along with common cost factors like size, complexity, location, and season. Most exterior masonry work done in freezing temperatures tends to cost more because of the preparation and protection involved to keep the masonry from freezing before the mortar cures properly. The average price ranges per project or square foot for different types of masonry include:

• Brick wall (fence, garden wall, etc.): $10–$45 per square foot

• Natural stone wall: $40–$110 per square foot

• Manufactured stone veneer: $20–$40 per square foot

• Brick home exterior: $10–$30 per square foot

• Brick siding: $3–$10 per square foot

• Stone siding: $35–$50 per square foot

• Brick step replacement: $20–$30 per square foot

• Brick wall repair: $20–$40 per square foot

• Chimney repairs: $160–$750 per project

• Tuckpointing: $5–$25 per square foot

Spraying is much faster but may not penetrate the bricks beyond a surface layer. Rolling penetrates the bricks but doesn’t work as well on the mortar. A combination of painting and rolling is your best bet. Using a brush to paint brick isn’t advised because it is time-consuming and won’t penetrate beyond the surface.

Cutting stone comes with a number of safety hazards. First and foremost, if you’re not comfortable with the equipment required to cut stone, including blades and grinders, you could easily injure yourself. The heavy machinery also poses a risk to your ears if you don’t wear proper ear protection; similarly, you need to wear eye protection to keep debris from irritating your eyes.

However, the biggest risk from cutting stone comes from the stone dust. When breathed in, stone dust can be a huge hazard to your lungs. Always wear a face mask when cutting stone to prevent inhaling stone dust, and thoroughly clean the work area when you are finished.

To avoid injury, we recommend hiring a stone-cutting professional, rather than attempting this job yourself.

No, you shouldn’t lay bricks directly on dirt. While it might seem like a shortcut, it leads to a patio that shifts, sinks, and becomes a maintenance headache. Dirt expands, contracts, and erodes—none of which mix well with long-term stability. To build something that lasts, excavate the topsoil, compact a layer of crushed gravel, and add a coarse sand-setting bed. This layered base gives your bricks proper support, allows drainage, and helps block weeds from creeping through. Cutting corners here just means you’ll spend more time—and money—repairing your brick patio later.