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The best base materials for a ground-level or floating deck are typically gravel and crushed stone (also known as landscaping rocks). These options are inexpensive, provide excellent drainage, prevent weeds, and help minimize moisture buildup, which reduces shifting and rotting. For added stability and to evenly distribute the weight, you can use concrete deck blocks or pavers. While more expensive, concrete blocks and pavers offer a sturdier base than gravel or crushed stone alone.

In most cases, sanding an old deck before staining it is necessary to achieve a decent finish. If your old deck has a relatively new stain finish on it and you're only doing touch-ups, you can generally skip the sanding part. However, if your goal is to make the deck look and function better, sanding first is a must. 

Liquid rubber is great for waterproofing, but it can damage your deck if it’s not applied correctly. First, it can trap moisture in the wood if the deck isn’t completely dry before application.  Second, applying it too thickly can create a heavy, rubbery surface layer that peels and cracks under fluctuating temperatures. For the best results, ensure the wood is completely dry before application, and apply the liquid rubber in thin, even coats. A quick inspection every now and then will help you catch any issues early, keeping your deck protected and looking its best.

Yes, it is generally safe to have a fire pit on a deck, but you must adhere to building codes and take several safety precautions. For both built-in and freestanding models, you must use a heat-resistant barrier, such as a fire pit pad or heat shield, between the pit and the deck. Additionally, consider the weight of the fire pit and ensure your deck can structurally support it, reinforcing it if necessary. The fire pit must also be positioned a safe distance from your house, particularly from materials like vinyl siding, to prevent heat damage.