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Carpet is most often affixed to the floor by tacks in tack strips rather than nailed or glued directly to the subfloor. The tack strips are nailed to wood subfloors. Even if you want to install carpet over concrete, you’ll adhere the tack strips to the concrete with masonry nails or a liquid adhesive.

In most cases, you do not need to put padding or underlayment under carpet tiles. Unlike traditional carpet, which requires a separate pad, carpet tiles are designed to be installed directly onto a firm subfloor like plywood, concrete, or tile. Many carpet tiles come with a built-in underlay and attach with peel-and-stick adhesive, double-sided carpet tape, or glue. For a more comfortable, cushioned feel, especially in residential settings, you can opt for padded carpet tiles that have a thicker underlay attached. While it's generally not recommended to install a separate pad, a compact underlayment might be used in some situations, though this typically requires professional installation. An acoustic underlay may also be considered in commercial spaces or multi-level homes where noise reduction is a priority.

If the installer is unwilling to fix the problems and you’re not interested in seeking remediation, you could hide a visually unpleasant floor. This will only work if the floor is structurally sound and the only issue you have is the way it looks. The easiest way to do this is to use large area rugs. You can also paint the floor, although that’s a labor-intensive job if you want to go the DIY route.

Many DIYers and pros start installing flooring in the middle of a room to ensure a balanced, symmetrical layout, especially when using tiles or planks. This process is particularly helpful in odd-shaped rooms because it allows you to create a centerline from which to work. Beginning in the center will enable you to work toward the edges so the final layout feels intentional and centered, even if the walls aren’t perfectly square.