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Driveways should be sloped with a minimum 2% slope—anything lower will cause precipitation and runoff to collect. A 2% slope is the equivalent of a 2-foot rise over 100 feet. One quick way to check the integrity of your driveway’s slope: no more than four inches of water should collect on the surface longer than 15 minutes after rain.

New asphalt goes through two stages: drying and curing. Drying typically takes 24 to 72 hours, after which the surface is solid enough for light use like walking or careful driving. While you may be able to park on it after 72 hours, the surface is still soft and should be treated gently. Full curing is a much longer process, taking anywhere from 30 days to a full year for the asphalt to reach maximum strength. During this extended curing period, the asphalt is susceptible to damage from heavy vehicles, sharp objects, and high temperatures. Factors like weather, the specific asphalt mix, and application thickness all influence drying and curing times. For the most accurate timeline and to ensure the longevity of your new asphalt, it is always best to consult with your installation contractor for their specific recommendations.

It’s best to weigh the pros and cons of each material and decide on your priorities for your driveway. Gravel won’t be an appropriate choice if your driveway experiences heavy traffic. You’ll find that you need to level and top it off regularly, which could make the material a much more expensive option.

Overall, a paver driveway is considered the easiest to maintain because homeowners are able to do driveway repair one piece at a time without impacting the rest of the driveway. Unlike paved options, paver driveways contain individual stones that aren't physically connected. By comparison, you may need to reseal or redo a full asphalt driveway if just one portion sustains a significant crack.