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Last update on May 07, 2026

Carpentry questions, answered by experts

Most load-bearing walls are exterior, though they can also be interior.

You should avoid drilling or cutting into load-bearing beams because removing material will weaken it and increase the risk of structural damage or even collapse. If you do need to drill into a load-bearing beam, speak with a structural engineer first to discuss where it’s safest to drill and the width and depth of the bit that’s safe to use.

Metal stud framing parts include the studs themselves, upper and lower tracks that act as top and bottom wall plates, various angle fasteners and clips, screws for fastening pieces togeher, metal straps, c-channel supports, and thicker steel supporting structures. Roof framing metal components include pre-fabricated trusses, heavy-gauge stud pieces, and various plates and fasteners.

Bump-out additions can add some space to a closet without requiring any significant structural work. This entails pushing back the existing rear or side of the closet, simply moving the wall into either an adjacent room or unused space. For ground-floor closets, this could even be extended to the exterior of the home, but that has its own complications. Bump-outs are a good discussion to have with your contractor if you’re just looking to increase the space a little—not renovate the entire closet space.

Installing a tongue-and-groove wall requires similar techniques to those associated with installing shiplap. However, because of the precision necessary to make each board fit perfectly and the increased material prices, the cost is higher than that of shiplap installations. Expect to spend between $2 and $6 more per square foot for tongue-and-groove walls versus shiplap ones.

The Hardin, KY homeowners’ guide to carpentry services

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