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Deck Staining questions, answered by experts

Limewash and whitewash are two techniques used to give brick a light, matte finish, but they differ in composition, application, and permanence. The best choice depends on your aesthetic goals and the specific surface.

Composition

  • Limewash: A natural and environmentally friendly option made from limestone, water, and sometimes pigments. It is breathable and soaks into porous surfaces like brick.

  • Whitewash: Traditionally made from lime, water, chalk, and binders, but a similar look can be achieved with watered-down white paint. It is paint-based and sits on top of the surface.

Appearance and Finish

  • Limewash: Provides a natural, textured appearance that allows the brick's character to show through. It offers a more traditional finish.

  • Whitewash: Creates a softer, more opaque finish, often used for a rustic or shabby-chic style.

Application and Permanence

  • Limewash: Is semi-permanent and can be removed, making it a good choice if you might want to change the look in the future. It requires more skill to apply and cannot be used on previously painted brick.

  • Whitewash: Is a more permanent solution. It is more forgiving to apply and can be used on painted brick. However, because it sits on the surface, it can trap moisture.

Ultimately, if you want a breathable, natural, and reversible finish for unpainted brick, limewash is a great option. If you need a more permanent, opaque coating that can be applied over painted surfaces, whitewash is the better choice. Whitewashing may also be more economical, costing approximately $1.40 to $4.20 per square foot.

Whether you can paint over your existing paint depends on what’s on there. Most of the time, you’ll want to sand down or scrape off the paint that’s currently coating your surface. Epoxy paint, for example, won’t let new paint stick to the surface. Latex paint is more forgiving and will accept a new coat, but a primer is recommended if you’re switching colors.

Stain is meant to be absorbed by the porous wood, allowing some of the natural grain to show through. With that in mind, you don’t want to add more stain than the wood can absorb, as you risk covering up its natural markings. Generally, two coats is the maximum you should do, although very dense hardwoods may only be able to take a single coat.

You’ll need to restrain your deck when you notice fading, cracking, peeling, or mold and mildew over a moderate to large area, or when it’s become especially difficult to clean. As for how often to stain a deck, plan to do it every two to three years or whenever you start to notice extended damage.

Your tool of choice ultimately comes down to personal preference. Many DIYers prefer applying stain with a lint-free rag, but others stick with a paint brush or a roller. Wipe the stain and work it into the wood, working with and against the grain. If you’re applying multiple coats, allow the stain to dry for around four hours between coats.

The Milford, KS homeowners’ guide to deck staining services

From average costs to expert advice, get all the answers you need to get your job done.