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When asphalt cures, it typically changes from a very dark black hue to a lighter, more matte gray color. Cured asphalt also won’t be tacky or sticky to the touch or emit any odors from the asphalt mix. Additionally, the surface of fully cured asphalt won’t deform under any pressure.

Maintaining a driveway depends on its material. For concrete and asphalt, it's best to clean the surface thoroughly twice a year with a stiff broom and a pressure washer to remove accumulated dirt and debris. Sealing the driveway is crucial to protect it from water damage and freeze-thaw cycles. Before applying a sealant, pressure wash the surface to remove any loose sealant, dirt, or stains, as sealing over them will trap them. Any cracks or expansion joints should be filled with a flexible polyurethane caulk or asphalt sealer. In colder climates, use sand instead of salt for de-icing. Sand helps melt snow and ice without accelerating the freeze-thaw process, which can cause cracks.

After removing existing moss, consider using paver blocking sand to fill the joints. This specialty material hardens once placed and serves as an effective barrier against moss and weeds. From there on, regularly clean your pavers and try to keep them dry. You can also seal your paver as a semi-permanent solution — just make sure you reseal every 3 to 5 years.

Compared to a 10x20 concrete driveway costing between $800 and $3,000, a resin bound driveway of the same size costing $3,900 to $4,000 is the more expensive option. However, the cost still makes resin a cheaper option compared to a 10x20 paver driveway costing an average of $12,000.