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It may sound icky, but yes, urine encourages microbial activity that breaks down organic matter faster. It’s rich in nitrogen, which helps balance carbon-heavy materials like dry leaves or straw. Use sparingly and apply it to a well-balanced pile, not one already high in nitrogen. 

The most common alternative is burning the stump first, then dealing with the cinders and ashes. As you can imagine, this option creates fire hazards, especially since roots can burn underground, hidden, for long afterward. That’s why many states and cities have outlawed the use of stump burning entirely. We do not recommend this option as a viable alternative unless you get a permit from the local fire department and practice all safe burning procedures.

Others prefer a more long-term DIY approach of degrading the stump with home mixtures like Epsom salt and vinegar injected directly into it. This may help the stump decay faster, allowing homeowners to dig it out themselves, but it’s still a lengthy process. It usually takes months for a stump to start falling apart with such treatments, and in the meantime, it can be vulnerable to rot, insects, and other problems.

While you don’t need to put anything down before mulch, you can apply a pre-emergent herbicide to prevent weed growth. As long as you remove weeds before you spread mulch, you should be in the clear. But a herbicide is something that you can put down before mulch as an extra layer of protection.

An herbicide with glyphosate, imazapyr, or triclopyr kills ivy the fastest. Herbicides inhibit photosynthesis and cell division. They kill the roots and prevent ivy from regrowing. You should apply herbicide to the cut stems and roots of ivy. You can also spray herbicide on the leaves of ivy, but be sure not to spray nearby trees and plants as it can cause them harm.