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Yes, you can limewash surfaces other than brick. Plaster, stone, stucco, and concrete can all also be limewashed. Any porous surface that will absorb the wash is a good candidate for limewash, although it won’t help much with waterproofing. If you choose to limewash over paint, you’ll need to prep before applying it to avoid a powdery, chalky finish. Shiny surfaces like metal or glass can’t absorb limewash, so it’s not suited for these.

Yes, you can do German schmear on stone. You can account for the more textured and rough surface of stone by using a large paintbrush instead of a putty knife. A brush allows you to drag mortar across the stone to get it into all the cracks and crevices. However, a brush will cover more of the surface, so you may need a wet sponge to scrub excess mortar and expose more of your stone.

Real stone is exactly what it sounds like: It’s real stone sourced from the earth without additives. It is durable and unique, but it’s difficult to work with because of its weight, challenge in sourcing, and high cost. Stone veneer mimics the look of real stone but is actually engineered with a mixture of Portland cement, natural minerals, and a colorant. While it’s more affordable and easier to work with, it’s less durable and may appear manufactured to the trained eye.

You should generally drill into the mortar joints when installing shutters on brick. Mortar is softer, which makes drilling easier and puts less strain on your tools. It also lowers the risk of cracking a brick—something that’s a lot harder to fix. Mortar holds fasteners well enough for standard shutters, and if you ever need to patch the holes later, it’s a much simpler job than dealing with damaged brick. Just keep in mind that if your mortar joints are too thin or the hardware calls for brick anchoring, you'll need to check the manufacturer’s recommendations and adjust accordingly.