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STC (Sound Transmission Class) is a rating that describes how well a building material or assembly blocks airborne sound. A higher STC rating means less noise will pass through the material, providing better sound reduction. This rating system applies to various building components, including windows, doors, flooring, drywall, and insulation.

For context, a typical single-pane window has an STC rating of around 25 (where normal conversations are audible), while a well-sealed, double-pane window can exceed STC 45 (blocking loud speech and most music). It is important to note that for some products, like soundproofing drywall, the STC rating refers to the entire wall system, not just the individual panel.

Additionally, STC ratings are most effective for measuring sound reduction at mid-to-high frequencies, such as human speech, and may not accurately reflect how well a material blocks low-frequency sounds like bass music or thunder. Because of these factors, it is recommended to consult a professional to determine the right STC-rated materials for your specific soundproofing needs.

Energy-efficient windows are judged on their performance according to a few different factors, including heat transfer, air leakage, light transference, and condensation resistance. If you're unsure whether a window is energy-efficient, look for an ENERGY STAR® label from the U.S. Environmental Protection Agency (EPA). If various products, including windows, meet energy-efficiency standards set by the federal government, the EPA issues this label to help consumers identify energy-efficient products.

Setting your AC unit to 78 degrees can, indeed, help you save energy. In fact, according to experts, every degree you turn the unit up could save you between 1% and 3% on your energy bills. That said, turning your unit off entirely while you’re out might actually be less efficient than keeping it on at a higher temperature. Why? The unit will need to work extra hard to cool the house back off again after all those hot hours. 

To determine the right size generator for your house, you should calculate the total wattage of the appliances and devices you want to power during an outage. List all essential items, note their start-up wattages, and add them together.

Here are some typical wattage requirements for common appliances:

• Refrigerator: 600 watts

• Large dehumidifier: 700 watts

• Large window air conditioner: 1,400 watts

• Water heater: 3,000 to 4,500 watts

• Electric furnace: 5,000 to 25,000 watts

A 7,500-watt generator might be sufficient for essentials like a refrigerator, freezer, well pump, and lighting circuits. However, for high-demand items like a water heater or furnace, a whole-home generator is a better choice. A portable generator may be enough if you only need to power a few critical items.

While home square footage can offer a rough estimate, it is not always a reliable indicator. For reference, here are some typical generator sizes based on square footage:

• 1,000 sq ft: 6–9 kW

• 1,500 sq ft: 7–10 kW

• 2,000 sq ft: 10–14 kW

• 2,500 sq ft: 12–16 kW

• 3,000 sq ft: 16–20 kW+

For the most accurate sizing, consult a professional who can calculate your home's peak and average power consumption and recommend the optimal generator.