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While you don’t need to put anything down before mulch, you can apply a pre-emergent herbicide to prevent weed growth. As long as you remove weeds before you spread mulch, you should be in the clear. But a herbicide is something that you can put down before mulch as an extra layer of protection.

It’s unlikely your leaves are a hazard, especially if you get to them while they’re dry. However, a couple of rare risks exist. University studies suggest that decaying leaves can produce organochlorines, toxic pollutants similar to man-made PCBs (polychlorinated biphenyls), so avoid keeping them in an enclosed area.

Also, leaves and compost may cause the growth of fungi that can cause diseases like histoplasmosis and aspergillosis, as well as mold spores that are unhealthy for human lungs. Again, severe issues are rare, but those with compromised immune systems or allergies to mold should wear face masks when directly handling leaves.

It can be bad to leave a dead stump in the ground. A stump becomes a hefty piece of dead wood in time and eventually (especially with the help of rain) starts to rot. That makes it a locus point for diseases and pesky insects, as well as a bit of an eyesore. It’s best to remove a tree stump completely before it starts to decay, especially before it starts to fall apart. If the tree was removed because of disease, it’s even more important to fully remove the stump if possible.

To prepare your lawn for core aeration, water it the day before you aerate. (Alternatively, you can wait until it rains and aerate the following day.) Aerating after watering or a rainy day will make the process easier since you can penetrate moist soil better than dry soil. You should also flag your sprinklers so that you don’t accidentally hit them while aerating. If you have a lot of thatch buildup in your yard, you might need to dethatch your lawn before aerating as well.