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If you’ve accessed the bolts and nuts that hold your toilet seat in place and can’t unscrew them, it’s possible that they were overtightened or that the material corroded over time, making it impossible to unscrew. If that’s the case, you can either call in a plumber for help, or you can DIY a solution if you’re careful. Lay down masking tape around the mounting bracket and then use the tape as a surface to lay a hack saw blade. Move slowly to cut through the bracket and bolt, being careful not to damage the porcelain in the process.

If you notice water coming out of the bottom of your tank or the flush handle, you obviously have a leaking tank. Water on the side of the tank can indicate cracks. Other signs include the toilet running and flushing without anyone touching the handle, needing to jiggle the handle to make the water stop after flushing, or needing to hold the handle down to empty the water tank.

No, your toilet tank should not empty completely when you flush. Although the water level will dip a lot after you flush, it shouldn’t be totally empty. If your tank is empty, you might have issues with your fill valve, float ball, or toilet trip lever. You should check all of your toilet parts to ensure they’re working correctly and make any necessary adjustments.

Yes, you should screw your flange to the subfloor, including cement. The best way to get this done is to predrill holes into the concrete using a hammer drill and a ¼-inch concrete bit. Be careful when you’re ready to bolt your flange down, as you can accidentally crack it. You can avoid this issue by not installing the screws too deep. Or, you can opt for a flange with a stainless steel ring so you don’t have to worry about cracking the plastic.