How to Install Drywall Corner Beads That Style Your Space in 5 Steps

Although it involves multiple steps, the result is worth the time investment 

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SKILL LEVEL
Intermediate
COMPLETION TIME
3 hours
COST
$25 - $50
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What you'll need:
TOOLS
  • Putty scraper
  • Hammer (metal beads)
  • Aviation snips (metal beads)
  • Staple gun (paper-faced beads)
  • Shears (paper-faced beads)
SUPPLIES
  • 120-220 grit sandpaper
  • Drywall joint compound
  • Drywall corner beads
  • Small nails (metal beads)
  • Staples (paper-faced beads)

Perfect, straight drywall corners don’t make themselves—adding drywall corner bead is what cleans up the look resulting in nice, sharp corners. Although there is a way to square off drywall by overlapping it at a corner, the edges are brittle and it isn’t the best long-term choice.

Handy workers have the choice between metal bead or paper-face bead. Which one you use depends on your DIY skills and comfort with drywall tools

Prepping to Install Drywall Beads

The prep work is the same for both metal beads and paper-faced beads. You want to make sure any sharp edges on the drywall have been cut or sanded down. Double-check that the drywall is clean and ready to apply primer everywhere but the corner. By properly setting up the area, you’re ensuring it’s ready for the corner beads, saving you time in the long run. 

  1. Measure and Cut the Beads

    Drywall Building Materials Choosing by Caucasian Contractor Worker
    Photo: welcomia / iStock/ Getty Images

    Measure the drywall in its entirety. This will usually be from a sort of molding to the ceiling or, if your drywall runs the entire height of your wall, measure floor to ceiling. For both types of drywall beads, you’ll want to leave just a little space at each end, around one-half inch. 

    When you cut paper-faced beads, you can simply cut the paper. The process is physically easier than cutting metal beads, which you need to do with aviation snips. Make sure with either type that there are no sharp or rounded edges—the beads should be as straight on the ends as they are in the middle. Cutting corner beads is much easier than cutting drywall

  2. Attach the Beads

    When it comes to attaching the beads, the method differs depending on which type of beads you choose. For paper-faced beads, apply a very thin layer of joint compound along the corner. Press the beads into the compound. They should adhere to the compound well, but add some staples just in case. Let it thoroughly dry before moving on to Step 3. 

    For metal beads, apply a thin compound as you did with the paper-faced beads. Press the metal beads against it firmly and, before it dries, use a hammer and small nails to secure it to the drywall. Nails are preferred to screws as screws tend to either raise above the beads or add small depressions if screwed in too tight. Wait for the compound to dry before moving on. 

  3. Apply Joint Compound Over the Beads

    applying the first coat of plaster on a drywall partition wall using a spatula
    Photo: Lex20/ Getty Images

    Only begin this step once everything is dry, which could be a few hours to overnight. Spread the joint compound over the beads using your putty scraper. You don’t need to be too clean, it’s the first layer and you’ll sand it down. Try to blend the compound into the drywall around the beads, spreading it evenly. While you don’t need to be exact, try not to spread it too thick as it will take much longer to dry. Let it completely dry before continuing. 

  4. Sand Between Each Coat of Compound

    Once the compound has dried, sand it down. You’ll want to do this with higher grit sandpaper, ideally around 150-200 grit, so you don’t take too much off at once. If you use low-grit (coarser) sandpaper, you run the risk of damaging the drywall around the bead. 

    Work from the corner and sand in a smooth motion while making sure you’re sanding enough to remove all unnecessary joint compound, but not so much that you’re exposing the bead. 

  5. Prime and Paint

    Newly installed plastering angle beads with plastic mesh on the external corner of a window
    Photo: Miroslava Ivanova / iStock / Getty Images

    The final step in the installation of drywall beads is to prime and paint the finished surface. Priming helps seal the joint compound and create an even surface for paint application, and if you’re painting the entire wall, you’ll have to prime that anyway. Once the primer has dried, paint the walls and, once it’s dry, enjoy your completed work. 

DIY vs. Hiring a Pro

If you’re comfortable using the tools this is a great DIY project, but drywalling is one of the least expensive contractor jobs. This is because it doesn’t take professionals long to do, and the materials are fairly inexpensive. 

While a local drywall expert might cost between $50 and $100 an hour, adding corner beads won’t add much time to your bill if you are installing the beads along with a new wall. If you are just hanging the beads on existing corners, a DIY fix shouldn’t cost more than the materials (and tools if you don’t have them) and just a few hours of work.  

Frequently Asked Questions

Yes, using drywall corner bead is highly recommended to ensure the corners of your walls are durable and long-lasting. Raw drywall is a brittle material, and its corners can easily get rubbed against, causing them to crumble, peel, or break. Installing drywall corner beads, also known as drywall beading, provides long-term support and protects the edges, keeping them looking fresh. While you could simply overlap the drywall, this is only advisable in rough, seldom-used areas like a basement or garage. Even in those cases, using corner bead is a good idea because it is inexpensive and relatively quick to install, protecting your investment over time.

Which style of corner bead you choose—whether metal or paper-faced—depends on your preference and if you’re comfortable using metal-cutting tools and a hammer. Metal bead offers superior strength and durability but its installation is slightly more involved. We’d say for most cases, it’s better to use metal bead but if you’re not comfortable working with metal, paper-faced bead will work just fine. 

Although they have similar applications, spackle and joint compound are not the same. Their primary differences lie in their composition, consistency, and ideal use cases.

Spackle is composed of gypsum and binding agents, making it thicker than joint compound. It dries quickly and is easy to sand, which makes it ideal for small wall repair projects like filling nail holes or patching minor damage.

Joint compound, also known as drywall mud, consists of limestone and gypsum. It is primarily used for large-scale projects, such as taping and finishing the seams on newly installed drywall. It tends to shrink more than spackle and can be more difficult to spread.

While both products can be used to fill small depressions and cracks, spackle cannot replace joint compound for taping and mudding new drywall. Conversely, you can often use joint compound for small patching jobs typically done with spackle.

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