How to Install Drywall Corner Beads That Style Your Space in 5 Steps

Although it involves multiple steps, the result is worth the time investment 

Contractor plastering wall with putty knife, fiberglass mesh, plaster mesh after rigid insulation
Photo: bildlove / Adobe Stock
Contractor plastering wall with putty knife, fiberglass mesh, plaster mesh after rigid insulation
Photo: bildlove / Adobe Stock
Mitchell Grant
Written by Mitchell Grant
Contributing Writer
Updated Oct 6, 2023
SKILL LEVEL
Intermediate
COMPLETION TIME
3 hours
COST
$25 - $50
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What you'll need:
TOOLS
  • Putty scraper
  • Hammer (metal beads)
  • Aviation snips (metal beads)
  • Staple gun (paper-faced beads)
  • Shears (paper-faced beads)
SUPPLIES
  • 120-220 grit sandpaper
  • Drywall joint compound
  • Drywall corner beads
  • Small nails (metal beads)
  • Staples (paper-faced beads)

Perfect, straight drywall corners don’t make themselves—adding drywall corner bead is what cleans up the look resulting in nice, sharp corners. Although there is a way to square off drywall by overlapping it at a corner, the edges are brittle and it isn’t the best long-term choice.

Handy workers have the choice between metal bead or paper-face bead. Which one you use depends on your DIY skills and comfort with drywall tools. 

Prepping to Install Drywall Beads

The prep work is the same for both metal beads and paper-faced beads. You want to make sure any sharp edges on the drywall have been cut or sanded down. Double-check that the drywall is clean and ready to apply primer everywhere but the corner. By properly setting up the area, you’re ensuring it’s ready for the corner beads, saving you time in the long run. 

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  1. Measure and Cut the Beads

    Drywall Building Materials Choosing by Caucasian Contractor Worker
    Photo: welcomia / iStock/ Getty Images

    Measure the drywall in its entirety. This will usually be from a sort of molding to the ceiling or, if your drywall runs the entire height of your wall, measure floor to ceiling. For both types of drywall beads, you’ll want to leave just a little space at each end, around one-half inch. 

    When you cut paper-faced beads, you can simply cut the paper. The process is physically easier than cutting metal beads, which you need to do with aviation snips. Make sure with either type that there are no sharp or rounded edges—the beads should be as straight on the ends as they are in the middle. Cutting corner beads is much easier than cutting drywall. 

  2. Attach the Beads

    When it comes to attaching the beads, the method differs depending on which type of beads you choose. For paper-faced beads, apply a very thin layer of joint compound along the corner. Press the beads into the compound. They should adhere to the compound well, but add some staples just in case. Let it thoroughly dry before moving on to Step 3. 

    For metal beads, apply a thin compound as you did with the paper-faced beads. Press the metal beads against it firmly and, before it dries, use a hammer and small nails to secure it to the drywall. Nails are preferred to screws as screws tend to either raise above the beads or add small depressions if screwed in too tight. Wait for the compound to dry before moving on. 

  3. Apply Joint Compound Over the Beads

    applying the first coat of plaster on a drywall partition wall using a spatula
    Photo: Lex20/ Getty Images

    Only begin this step once everything is dry, which could be a few hours to overnight. Spread the joint compound over the beads using your putty scraper. You don’t need to be too clean, it’s the first layer and you’ll sand it down. Try to blend the compound into the drywall around the beads, spreading it evenly. While you don’t need to be exact, try not to spread it too thick as it will take much longer to dry. Let it completely dry before continuing. 

  4. Sand Between Each Coat of Compound

    Once the compound has dried, sand it down. You’ll want to do this with higher grit sandpaper, ideally around 150-200 grit, so you don’t take too much off at once. If you use low-grit (coarser) sandpaper, you run the risk of damaging the drywall around the bead. 

    Work from the corner and sand in a smooth motion while making sure you’re sanding enough to remove all unnecessary joint compound, but not so much that you’re exposing the bead. 

  5. Prime and Paint

    Newly installed plastering angle beads with plastic mesh on the external corner of a window
    Photo: Miroslava Ivanova / iStock / Getty Images

    The final step in the installation of drywall beads is to prime and paint the finished surface. Priming helps seal the joint compound and create an even surface for paint application, and if you’re painting the entire wall, you’ll have to prime that anyway. Once the primer has dried, paint the walls and, once it’s dry, enjoy your completed work. 

DIY vs. Hiring a Pro

If you’re comfortable using the tools this is a great DIY project, but drywalling is one of the least expensive contractor jobs. This is because it doesn’t take professionals long to do, and the materials are fairly inexpensive. 

While a local drywall expert might cost between $50 and $100 an hour, adding corner beads won’t add much time to your bill if you are installing the beads along with a new wall. If you are just hanging the beads on existing corners, a DIY fix shouldn’t cost more than the materials (and tools if you don’t have them) and just a few hours of work.  

Frequently Asked Questions

Drywall corner bead is necessary if you want the corners of your walls to last the test of time. Raw drywall corners peel and break off in pieces fairly easily, so adding corner bead keeps the edges looking fresh. You can get away with simply overlapping the drywall but that is only a good idea if you’re doing it in a very rough and seldom-used area like a corner of a basement or garage. Even then you should probably use corner bead, as it’s relatively inexpensive and quick to install. 

Which style of corner bead you choose—whether metal or paper-faced—depends on your preference and if you’re comfortable using metal-cutting tools and a hammer. Metal bead offers superior strength and durability but its installation is slightly more involved. We’d say for most cases, it’s better to use metal bead but if you’re not comfortable working with metal, paper-faced bead will work just fine. 

It’s a pretty good idea to have drywall corners, also called drywall beading. Drywall is a pretty brittle material and corners tend to be rubbed up against it often. Rather quickly, the edges will start crumbling and you’ll need to replace the entire panel, or add beads on top and repaint the wall. Drywall beads—which are inexpensive—provide long-term support for the drywall and protect your investment.

Although their applications are very similar, no drywall compound and spackle are not the same thing. Spackle is a bit thicker and is used to patch holes as it dries quickly and is easy to sand. Joint compound shrinks a bit more and can be more temperamental to spread. However, one benefit is that you can use joint compound as spackle (for small jobs), but you can’t use spackle as joint compound.  

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Learn more about our contributor
Mitchell Grant
Written by Mitchell Grant
Contributing Writer
Mitchell loves to share his passion for hands-on work at home. His current writing can be found on Investopedia, Citigroup, LendingTree, and more where he provides financial tips on saving, buying, and investing in homes.

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