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When asphalt cures, it typically changes from a very dark black hue to a lighter, more matte gray color. Cured asphalt also won’t be tacky or sticky to the touch or emit any odors from the asphalt mix. Additionally, the surface of fully cured asphalt won’t deform under any pressure.

Yes, but it's best to kill off the grass with solarization and remove the dead plant matter before laying down the pavers. This helps limit the chance of your pavers shifting as the dead plant matter decomposes.

While blacktop is a type of asphalt, the terms should not be used interchangeably, as not all asphalt qualifies as blacktop. The primary differences are in their composition, production process, and ideal applications. Blacktop contains more stone than other types of asphalt and is heated to a higher temperature during production—300°F or more—while hot-mix asphalt is heated to between 275°F and 300°F. The ratio of bitumen (a tar-like crude oil) is a key differentiator, though sources vary: some state blacktop has less bitumen, making it less durable, while others claim it has a higher ratio. Due to these differences, asphalt is generally more durable and better for high-traffic areas like highways and streets, while blacktop is more suitable for playgrounds and residential driveways. For a driveway project, it is best to consult a professional to determine the most appropriate material.

In most cases, you don’t need a permit to repave your driveway, although some exceptions exist. If you’re widening your driveway and plan on widening the apron as well, you’ll usually need a permit from the Department of Transportation in your area. This permit costs between $50 and $300 in most cases. Most municipalities will also require a certified and insured contractor do the work relating to the apron and curb cut. You can contact your building department or ask your paving company if you need a permit. Your driveway professional will usually pull the permit for you.