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Most plum trees are pruned into a vase or open wine glass shape. They’ll have a shorter central leader (the trunk) that supports three to four main branches. Of course, this isn't always the case. If you have a European plum tree, you can grow it in a pyramid shape. Let the central leader extend the length of the tree and prune smaller branches to create the pyramid.

In most cases, leaving tree roots underground is not a problem if the stump has been removed or ground below the soil. However, some larger roots may decompose, leaving dents in your soil. Additionally, some aggressive trees, including willows, oaks, elms, maples, and poplars may grow back from roots. Large aggressive trees with established root systems are more likely to grow back.

You should avoid cutting off the top of mature cherry trees. This process is called tree topping, and it’s not recommended for cherry trees—or any trees, for that matter. Tree topping removes between one-third to half of the length of the tree trunk, resulting in structurally unsound, fruitless suckers. The only exception is for saplings. Young pie, sour, and tart cherry trees that are over 30 inches tall in the fall or winter before the tree blooms can benefit from heading cuts.

Although many tree roots will continue to grow after the tree has been cut, there are a handful of exceptions to this rule. While species like elms, ficus, and willows have roots that will regrow with a vengeance, pine, oak, and maple roots will die when they’re cut down. If you’re not sure what kind of tree roots you’re dealing with, there’s a simple way to find out. New sprouts on old trunks, stumps, or exposed roots are a sign that the root system is still hard at work.