Get matched with top masons in Manti, UT

Yes, masonry is more expensive than concrete because the labor is much more involved. With masonry, your expert will build your project from the ground up, one piece at a time, ensuring they use the proper amount of mortar or grout during construction and keeping the project level or plumb. Pouring concrete can also be labor-intensive, but it’s a bit less involved. It requires building a mold, pouring the concrete, and letting it cure. The less intensive labor makes concrete a more affordable option in most cases.

Yes, concrete is significantly stronger than masonry, especially if the concrete pour includes reinforcements, like steel rebar. Concrete is a uniform material that can withstand compression, sheer force, and tensile force as long as it’s reinforced. Masonry involves the use of mortar or grout to connect individual building materials, like brick, stone, or tile. Mortar and grout are also reasonably strong and resist compression well, but they don’t come close to the strength of poured concrete.

The cost of masonry work varies widely depending on the type of masonry along with common cost factors like size, complexity, location, and season. Most exterior masonry work done in freezing temperatures tends to cost more because of the preparation and protection involved to keep the masonry from freezing before the mortar cures properly. The average price ranges per project or square foot for different types of masonry include:

• Brick wall (fence, garden wall, etc.): $10–$45 per square foot

• Natural stone wall: $40–$110 per square foot

• Manufactured stone veneer: $20–$40 per square foot

• Brick home exterior: $10–$30 per square foot

• Brick siding: $3–$10 per square foot

• Stone siding: $35–$50 per square foot

• Brick step replacement: $20–$30 per square foot

• Brick wall repair: $20–$40 per square foot

• Chimney repairs: $160–$750 per project

• Tuckpointing: $5–$25 per square foot

No, you shouldn’t lay bricks directly on dirt. While it might seem like a shortcut, it leads to a patio that shifts, sinks, and becomes a maintenance headache. Dirt expands, contracts, and erodes—none of which mix well with long-term stability. To build something that lasts, excavate the topsoil, compact a layer of crushed gravel, and add a coarse sand-setting bed. This layered base gives your bricks proper support, allows drainage, and helps block weeds from creeping through. Cutting corners here just means you’ll spend more time—and money—repairing your brick patio later.