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You should generally drill into the mortar joints when installing shutters on brick. Mortar is softer, which makes drilling easier and puts less strain on your tools. It also lowers the risk of cracking a brick—something that’s a lot harder to fix. Mortar holds fasteners well enough for standard shutters, and if you ever need to patch the holes later, it’s a much simpler job than dealing with damaged brick. Just keep in mind that if your mortar joints are too thin or the hardware calls for brick anchoring, you'll need to check the manufacturer’s recommendations and adjust accordingly.

Solid brick structures can last a century or more, potentially 100 to 150 years with proper maintenance like tuckpointing. Without major repairs, classic red bricks may last 20 to 40 years. Brick veneer siding is also a long-lasting material, with a lifespan ranging from 50 to 100 years, provided it is properly installed and maintained. To maintain brick veneer, you should scrub it annually with a special detergent and a soft-bristled broom. It's also important to inspect the bricks and mortar regularly and hire a masonry contractor for any necessary repairs, such as fixing worn mortar or bowing bricks.

Staining or painting brick isn’t something to do on a whim. Make sure you really want to live with stained brick, because once you apply the stain, it’s permanent. Sure, it will fade over time, but you can’t restore the brick to its natural tones after applying a stain or paint.

When painting brick, each application method has pros and cons. Spraying is much faster but may not penetrate the porous surface of the bricks. Rolling is effective for getting paint into the bricks but doesn't work as well on the mortar. Brushing is very time-consuming and also won't penetrate beyond the surface. For the best results, a combination of spraying and rolling is often recommended. If you use a roller, choose a thick option (at least a half-inch) and ensure the paint gets into all the crevices for even coverage.