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Yes, you can install insulation behind drywall yourself, but only if your walls are not finished. If your studs are exposed, installing fiberglass insulation in roll or batt form is very straightforward and just requires a few tools and some safety equipment. If your walls are already finished and you’re looking to add insulation, it’s better to hire a professional, as you’ll likely need blown-in insulation, which can be dangerous to work with and a challenge to get into the proper areas in your wall voids.

When installing board and batten siding, make sure there is wall sheathing and a moisture-resistant barrier installed. Behind that sheathing should be plywood or OSB for you to nail the boards and battens into. If there isn’t plywood or OSB, you can install vertical furring strips at 1½- to 2-foot intervals to nail the boards and battens to.

Insulating a detached garage won't reduce your home's heating or cooling bills—and insulating an attached garage will only have a small effect on your home's energy efficiency. However, insulating an attached garage can reduce the transfer of heating and cooling to and from the outdoors, which can reduce the amount of energy your home needs to stay comfortable. Also, having an insulated garage is just more pleasant. Balance the cost of insulating your garage with how you'll use the space to determine if the project is worth it.

Structural insulated panels and rigid foam boards have the highest R-value of any insulation that contractors commonly use, with R-values reaching up to around 8.0. These types of insulation are best in extremely cold climates, but they’re generally preferred for new construction, as they can be challenging to retrofit. Blown-in and loose fill insulation provide the next best insulative value, provided the installation is done properly. It’s important to choose an insulation type that meets your needs based on climate, as maximizing R-value may not always be financially worthwhile if you live in a moderate climate.