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When your sod is new, you should keep an eye on it to prevent dehydration. As new sod plants its roots into the soil beneath it, it can easily get dehydrated and start to turn brown. Keeping a consistent watering schedule for your new sod will help prevent this issue and will help it thrive as it roots into your yard.

Once your sod is about six weeks old, you can start to establish a regular lawn maintenance routine, complete with mowing, edging, and fertilizing.  

While your lawn will reap the benefits of core aeration faster than liquid aeration, the liquid solution will last longer and have more cumulative effects. If your lawn is in really bad shape, try both. By creating holes in the soil with the core aerator, you’ll make it easier for your lawn to absorb the liquid aerator solution. You might have to apply the liquid aerator several times during the growing season, but again, the positive results will be more cumulative than with core aeration on its own.

To prepare your lawn for core aeration, water it the day before you aerate. (Alternatively, you can wait until it rains and aerate the following day.) Aerating after watering or a rainy day will make the process easier since you can penetrate moist soil better than dry soil. You should also flag your sprinklers so that you don’t accidentally hit them while aerating. If you have a lot of thatch buildup in your yard, you might need to dethatch your lawn before aerating as well.

Hydroseeding over an existing lawn is possible, but certain adjustments are necessary since the process is for bare soil. Hydroseed mix is ​​usually very thick, which helps protect the seeds during germination. If you have existing grass on your site and still want to hydroseed, it's better to use a finer mulch mixture when spraying. A finer mulch mix means the seeds can root into existing soil without suffocating the existing grass.