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Ductwork should be wrapped in insulation in certain locations. This includes unconditioned interior parts of the home, such as attics, crawl spaces, basement ceilings, and between floors. Duct joints should also be insulated since they're more likely to leak air than other parts of your system. Building codes in some areas also require ductwork to be insulated.

You do not always need to remove old insulation before adding new. If the existing insulation is in good condition—not wet, physically damaged, moldy, or infested with pests—you can add new insulation directly on top of it for a compounding effect. You can also mix different types, such as adding blown-in insulation around existing fiberglass batts.

However, removal is recommended if the old insulation is compromised by water damage or pests. You should also remove it if you plan to install a different type of insulation, like switching from roll or batt insulation to spray foam. If the existing insulation is very old or damaged, you will likely get more benefit from removing it and starting fresh.

A moisture or vapor barrier helps separate the warm air inside your home from the cold air outside of it. Without it, your walls could collect condensation, mold, or other damage. Check your local building codes to see if including an interior vapor barrier is necessary for your building project or renovation, especially for rooms that are likely to be humid, like bathrooms.

Unfaced wall insulation is easier to cut and install, making it the better choice for a DIY project. It’s also more affordable. But if it’s unfaced, you’ll likely need to add a vapor barrier to reach your desired R-value and efficiency, as it doesn’t offer any moisture barrier.

Faced insulation uses paper or foil to create a built-in barrier and doesn’t require an extra step. It’s also more fire-resistant and safe. But it’s quite a bit more expensive and a little bit harder to work with as a DIYer.