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Electric bills tend to be lower in spring and fall because people use less electricity during these seasons. Milder temperatures allow for less use of heating and cooling, unlike during winter and summer, which usually bring more extreme temperatures.

To determine the right size generator for your house, you should calculate the total wattage of the appliances and devices you want to power during an outage. List all essential items, note their start-up wattages, and add them together.

Here are some typical wattage requirements for common appliances:

• Refrigerator: 600 watts

• Large dehumidifier: 700 watts

• Large window air conditioner: 1,400 watts

• Water heater: 3,000 to 4,500 watts

• Electric furnace: 5,000 to 25,000 watts

A 7,500-watt generator might be sufficient for essentials like a refrigerator, freezer, well pump, and lighting circuits. However, for high-demand items like a water heater or furnace, a whole-home generator is a better choice. A portable generator may be enough if you only need to power a few critical items.

While home square footage can offer a rough estimate, it is not always a reliable indicator. For reference, here are some typical generator sizes based on square footage:

• 1,000 sq ft: 6–9 kW

• 1,500 sq ft: 7–10 kW

• 2,000 sq ft: 10–14 kW

• 2,500 sq ft: 12–16 kW

• 3,000 sq ft: 16–20 kW+

For the most accurate sizing, consult a professional who can calculate your home's peak and average power consumption and recommend the optimal generator.

Window AC units use a fair amount of electricity, but significantly less than central AC systems. Because they are more energy-efficient for cooling individual rooms or small spaces, their usage is comparatively low. On average, a window AC unit consumes between 500 and 1,400 watts, while a central AC system uses over 3,500 watts—meaning a window unit uses about one-third of the energy. This typically translates to a monthly running cost of $15 to $40, although this can vary depending on external factors.

A blower door test shouldn’t take more than an hour, and most can be completed in less than 30 minutes. Expect the test to take longer once you start searching for leaks with thermal imaging or want to include sealing such leaks in the time estimate. The test doesn’t take much time and can’t be rushed, but it will take longer in large homes or those with many air leaks.