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The easiest way to tell if a wall is load bearing is to check if it’s an exterior wall or if it runs perpendicular to the joists above and below it (or parallel to beams). Exterior walls are almost always load-bearing, and walls that run under beams or parallel to them are also usually load-bearing. There are exceptions to these rules, and walls that don’t fit into these categories can still be load-bearing. If you’re unsure, hire a structural engineer to look at your home to assess whether or not the wall is structural.

The 10 10 rule describes the formula most contractors use to determine how much to charge for a job. Allowing for 10% overhead above the total projected cost to do the work and 10% profit sets a contractor up for success, even if there are delays or other problems on the project. This formula isn’t a hard-and-fast rule, but it is a ballpark figure to begin with when estimating your expenses on a job.

Yes, you can put a doorway in a structural wall; in fact, most exterior doors are set into structural walls. The project is a little more challenging than installing a door in a non-load-bearing wall because you need a structural engineer to assess the wall and make sure it’s safe to create a wall opening. Your engineer’s report will include instructions for your contractor on how and where to install additional supports, like steel headers above the door, to distribute the weight above to the wall on either side of the door.

The National Association of Home Builders requires repair of any foundation crack of more than one quarter of an inch, although local regulations may vary. In general, any visible crack that is growing in size, allowing water through, or that you have just noticed, is a good reason to call a structural engineer. Cracks can be a sign of a sinking foundation, so an inspection is a good idea for your peace of mind.