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A scattering of leaves won’t pose a problem through the winter, but a thicker layer of leaves may not decompose before the first frost and can instead weigh down your grass and harbor mold or fungi. A thick layer of leaves also cuts off light and air that grass needs to grow. That’s why we suggest removing thick leaf layers within several days if possible. If your lawn goes dormant over the winter and snow has already caught up with you, then remove the leaves in early spring before your grass-growing season starts so your lawn can thrive.

As much as you might try to keep a healthy, nutrient-rich lawn, you still may notice signs of St. Augustine decline (SAD)—a viral disease that discolors your grass blades. St. Augustine decline looks like:

• Discoloration in the leaves (chlorosis)—leaves appear yellow and splotchy

• Decline in growth

• Leaves turn black within 3 years

• Grass appears less vibrant

• Grass begins to thin

• Root rot

• Grass takes longer to recover

A half inch above ground level is ideal for metal edging. This provides enough depth for the edging to hold in place and enough height to keep in most landscaping materials (like mulch or gravel). If you install edging too high off the ground, it will stand out from your landscaping and pose a tripping risk. If you install it too low, your ground cover won’t stay in place.

There are two main times of year to apply mulch: mid to late spring and late fall. Spreading mulch in mid to late spring helps protect new seedlings as the soil warms up. It's best to wait until temperatures are steady, as mulching too early in the spring can slow down the soil's warming process and hinder plant growth. Fall mulching is also beneficial, as it insulates the soil and helps regulate its temperature when the first frosts arrive.