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No, when done correctly, removing the tile shouldn’t damage the subfloor. However, if there was pre-existing damage to the subfloor from standard use or lack of maintenance, the subfloor may need repairs. For example, if the contractors notice mold growth on the subfloor or an uneven surface, you may need more extensive services before installing new tile.

If you DIY tile removal, remove the tiles one step at a time, individually removing the tile, grout, and mortar to prevent unnecessarily damaging the subfloor. Depending on the age of your home, consider having a professional inspect the subfloor to ensure it’s in good enough condition to lay new tile.

Yes, but you should only put tile directly on drywall in smaller areas that don’t experience excess moisture. For example, a small kitchen tile backsplash could work, but installing tile directly on the drywall in a bathroom or other chronically damp area is not a good idea. Either way, a cement backer board is a far more reliable solution, as drywall is susceptible to moisture and can warp or cause your tiles to crack.

The number of boxes of tile you need depends entirely on the amount of tile in each box or case. Different manufacturers package their tiles differently, and boxes contain different amounts of tile depending on the size, shape, and material. Often, the amount of area that a case will cover is listed in the product description. To calculate the number of boxes you need, take the total square feet of the space and divide it by the number of square feet the box will cover.

Thinset mortar is the best adhesive for ceramic tiles on concrete. It is easy to work with and has a slower dry time than mastic or epoxy mortars. This longer dry time gives the installer more time to adjust tiles, which is especially useful for DIYers who may not have tile installation experience. It can also be built up to help level any depressions or gaps in the concrete subfloor.