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Whether to brush or roll stain on wood depends on the project and your preference. Brushing is ideal for smaller, intricate areas and offers more control over the application, ensuring thorough coverage and penetration into the wood's grain. 

Conversely, rolling is efficient for more extensive, flat surfaces and can save time. However, it is not always the best fit for textured or uneven wood. Some projects may benefit from combining both methods, using a brush for detail work and a roller for broader areas. Ultimately, the choice between brushing and rolling depends on the specific requirements of your staining project.

Liquid rubber is great for waterproofing, but it can damage your deck if it’s not applied correctly. First, it can trap moisture in the wood if the deck isn’t completely dry before application.  Second, applying it too thickly can create a heavy, rubbery surface layer that peels and cracks under fluctuating temperatures. For the best results, ensure the wood is completely dry before application, and apply the liquid rubber in thin, even coats. A quick inspection every now and then will help you catch any issues early, keeping your deck protected and looking its best.

Staining or sealing a cedar deck or fence is highly recommended to extend its lifespan and protect it from the elements. While cedar is naturally resistant to mold and mildew, it is not impervious to damage from moisture, sun exposure, splintering, fading, and rot over time. Applying a protective finish creates a shield that preserves the wood's strength and appearance, potentially extending its life by five to 10 years.

When choosing a finish, it's helpful to understand the difference between a sealer and a stain. A sealer sits on top of the wood, whereas a combination stain and sealer soaks into the top layer. Because it penetrates the wood, a stain generally offers better protection against UV damage and rot and lasts significantly longer. For the best results that also preserve the wood's natural color, consider using a near-translucent stain.

To maintain protection, plan on reapplying the stain or sealer every two to three years, either as a DIY project or by hiring a professional.

Limewash and whitewash are two techniques used to give brick a light, matte finish, but they differ in composition, application, and permanence. The best choice depends on your aesthetic goals and the specific surface.

Composition

• Limewash: A natural and environmentally friendly option made from limestone, water, and sometimes pigments. It is breathable and soaks into porous surfaces like brick.

• Whitewash: Traditionally made from lime, water, chalk, and binders, but a similar look can be achieved with watered-down white paint. It is paint-based and sits on top of the surface.

Appearance and Finish

• Limewash: Provides a natural, textured appearance that allows the brick's character to show through. It offers a more traditional finish.

• Whitewash: Creates a softer, more opaque finish, often used for a rustic or shabby-chic style.

Application and Permanence

• Limewash: Is semi-permanent and can be removed, making it a good choice if you might want to change the look in the future. It requires more skill to apply and cannot be used on previously painted brick.

• Whitewash: Is a more permanent solution. It is more forgiving to apply and can be used on painted brick. However, because it sits on the surface, it can trap moisture.

Ultimately, if you want a breathable, natural, and reversible finish for unpainted brick, limewash is a great option. If you need a more permanent, opaque coating that can be applied over painted surfaces, whitewash is the better choice. Whitewashing may also be more economical, costing approximately $1.40 to $4.20 per square foot.