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Unfaced wall insulation is easier to cut and install, making it the better choice for a DIY project. It’s also more affordable. But if it’s unfaced, you’ll likely need to add a vapor barrier to reach your desired R-value and efficiency, as it doesn’t offer any moisture barrier.

Faced insulation uses paper or foil to create a built-in barrier and doesn’t require an extra step. It’s also more fire-resistant and safe. But it’s quite a bit more expensive and a little bit harder to work with as a DIYer.

For standard 2x4 walls, the ideal insulation has an R-value between R-13 and R-15. This level of insulation, typically around 3.5 inches thick, fits well within the wall cavity. Common options include fiberglass batts and spray foam. The best choice for your home can depend on your climate; use R-value maps, like those from Energy Star, to determine the recommended level for your region. For colder climates, you might also consider adding exterior insulation for greater efficiency. Always check with your local building codes to ensure you meet any required standards.

While not every wall requires a vapor barrier, if you do need one and don’t install it, moisture can get between the walls of your home. This can lead to water damage from mold growth or rot, and the excess moisture could also attract pests, including termites, cockroaches, or ants.

If you need to insulate behind finished walls, the best option will likely be to have an insulation professional install blown-in insulation. The installation requires small holes cut in your wall, after which the installer can blow loose-fill insulation into the void. After the installation, you’ll have minor drywall patching, which shouldn’t cost more than $100. Compared to ripping down the existing drywall, using a different type of insulation, and replacing and finishing the drywall, this should save you hundreds or even thousands, depending on the size of the room you’re insulating.