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Hydroseeding is a great option for sloped yards, as sod might not root as well. Hydroseeding also traditionally creates sprouts faster than normal seeding—up to a full week faster. Additionally, you can customize your slurry mix with hydroseed, allowing you to create a mixture that will work specifically for your yard’s conditions. 

It’s important to remember that hydroseeded lawns require a lot of water during the first few weeks of installation, which can be time-consuming and costly. Additionally, the installation window tends to be shorter than that of sod and traditional grass. 

Generally, it is not necessary to remove old mulch before applying a new layer. As organic mulch breaks down, it enriches the soil with nutrients. However, you should remove the old layer if it shows signs of fungus or disease, which can be common in moist areas, or if the total depth is already too thick. Avoid letting the total mulch depth exceed 3 inches, as this can harm plant roots. If you do remove old, disease-free mulch, it can be added to a compost pile.

Yes, you need to use landscape fabric under your rubber mulch. Rubber mulch doesn’t decompose, so putting landscape fabric down can work as a barrier between your mulch and soil, preventing your mulch from mixing with your soil and leaching chemicals like aluminum, cadmium, and copper into it. Also, since weeds can occasionally get through rubber mulch, using landscape fabric as a second form of protection can increase its effectiveness. 

You can fill the holes weeds leave behind with soil or sand to avoid unsightly spots or tripping hazards. If you remove weeds from a grassy area, fill the hole with soil and grass seed, and water regularly to promote grass growth.