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R-30 insulation is better for higher thermal resistance, but whether it’s "better" depends on the application. R-30 is much thicker and suited for areas like attics or floors in cold climates, where more insulation is required. R-13, on the other hand, is thinner and works well for 2x4 walls or milder climates where less insulation is sufficient. Choosing between R-13 and R-30 depends on the area being insulated and the climate. For example, R-30 provides more insulation but may not fit everywhere in your home.

If you need to insulate behind finished walls, the best option will likely be to have an insulation professional install blown-in insulation. The installation requires small holes cut in your wall, after which the installer can blow loose-fill insulation into the void. After the installation, you’ll have minor drywall patching, which shouldn’t cost more than $100. Compared to ripping down the existing drywall, using a different type of insulation, and replacing and finishing the drywall, this should save you hundreds or even thousands, depending on the size of the room you’re insulating.

Mineral wool wraps are the most affordable and effective insulation for crawl space ducts. They are easy to cut, last for a long time, and healthier for humans. Meanwhile, fiberglass wraps are cheaper but more hazardous and difficult to handle. If you do choose to use a fiberglass wrap, make sure you are wearing long sleeves and wear proper protective gear.

Natural fiber batts and spray foam insulation both work great for soundproofing. Newer materials, such as hemp batts, are more expensive but more effective for insulation and sound blocking. They are also more sustainable. There is also a professional system called Blow-In Blanket Insulation (BIBS) that is soundproof and moisture-resistant. However, BIBS must be installed professionally and can be a costly investment.