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Liquid chlorine is better for shock treatments or instances where you need to raise your chlorine levels quickly. Tablets are better for regular maintenance. Tablets take more time to dissolve but require less effort. You don’t need to measure out volume, and you can set them in a floater and let that do the work.

Shipping container pools are prone to rust and corrosion over time, especially if you install a saltwater system. Though the interior of your pool should be lined, the outside is at risk. Luckily there are a few things you can do.

Elevate your pool or place it on a foundation to prevent moisture buildup along the bottom of the container. Apply a rust inhibitor or paint to protect the outside of your pool, and maintain the proper chlorine levels to reduce the rate of corrosion. Regularly inspect your pool for signs of corrosion, and take action when necessary. 

Filter balls don’t work as well as sand filters because they’re unable to handle large debris, are prone to clogging, and require frequent cleaning. While they can seem more convenient and less expensive than sand filters, most need to be removed and washed regularly, or they won’t filter well and struggle with algae and dirt. Speak with your pool maintenance pro about the best filtration option for your pool.

Calcium lumps in a pool are calcium deposits that form when a pool's water parameters are not in the normal range. They can float around on the surface of the pool water, making it look and feel dirty. The most common causes of calcium lumps in pools are calcium hardness above 1,000 ppm, alkalinity over 120, and a pH over 7.8. Keeping your pool’s calcium levels, alkalinity, and pH levels within the normal, safe ranges is the best way to prevent calcium lumps and other problems, including damage to the pool surface.