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When installing board and batten siding, make sure there is wall sheathing and a moisture-resistant barrier installed. Behind that sheathing should be plywood or OSB for you to nail the boards and battens into. If there isn’t plywood or OSB, you can install vertical furring strips at 1½- to 2-foot intervals to nail the boards and battens to.

For standard 2x4 walls, the ideal insulation has an R-value between R-13 and R-15. This level of insulation, typically around 3.5 inches thick, fits well within the wall cavity. Common options include fiberglass batts and spray foam. The best choice for your home can depend on your climate; use R-value maps, like those from Energy Star, to determine the recommended level for your region. For colder climates, you might also consider adding exterior insulation for greater efficiency. Always check with your local building codes to ensure you meet any required standards.

Yes, you can install insulation over ductwork, and doing so can save you money. Without insulation, the HVAC unit must work harder to force warm or cool air around the home, and once the air reaches the vent, it may not be the correct temperature. Insulating HVAC ducts makes your system work more efficiently, saving you money on heating and cooling bills.

While there are many different kinds of insulation, spray foam, blown-in, foam board, and batt and roll are the four types you’re most likely to see. That doesn’t mean they’re alike, though. Each one varies drastically in terms of cost, materials used, and how they’re installed—not to mention, how well they limit heat transfer.