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It’s best not to install a radiant barrier directly under insulation because it requires an air gap on at least one side to work properly. Instead, you should install the radiant barrier over your existing insulation to create an air space to reflect the radiant heat.

Blown-in insulation works, but only for unfinished attics. Also, it isn’t the longest-lasting nor the most effective option. For better options, look into spray foam insulation or natural fiber batts. They typically have a longer lifespan, better heat resistance, and stronger sound-proof abilities. Spray foam insulation costs about $1.25 to $1.50 per square foot, but can go up to more than $4 per square foot. Fiber batt pricing varies depending on the material.

Three signs that you need crawl space insulation are drafts, high energy bills, and mold. Drafts can start in crawl spaces and cause hot or cold air to spread to the rest of your home through holes in the floors and walls. And even if your entire home is well-insulated, you can still feel an unchecked draft from your crawl space and in your utility bill. Uninsulated crawl spaces can let in air and moisture, and because they’re built directly on the ground and difficult to dry out, they are hotspots for mold and mildew.

Yes, insulating ductwork in a crawl space is a worthwhile investment, especially if you live in a colder climate or run your air conditioning for most of the year. Uninsulated ducts can lose up to 30% of their heating and cooling efficiency, which can significantly impact your electricity bill. The project is a relatively small investment and typically only takes a few hours. It's a particularly simple add-on if you are already hiring someone to insulate the entire crawl space. An added benefit is that insulated ducts put off less hot or cold air, making them less attractive to pests.