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Brush Chipping questions, answered by experts

In general, you can prune up to one third of the height of most shrubs without damaging them. There are a few exceptions to this rule: Pine shrubs, for example, can’t be trimmed below the point of new growth without damaging them.

It’s possible to over-mulch leaves. If the leaf mulch is thick enough that it’s blocking and smothering the grass, that’s a problem. Ideally, you should still be able to see the grass when you’re done mulching to ensure its ability to continue growing. The solution is to make another pass at the top layer of leaf mulch to collect some of the top layer.

The easiest way to remove bushes is first to cut the bush down. You may need to use a handsaw, pruning shears, or a chainsaw for thicker branches. Once you’ve removed most of the branches, you can then cut the base of the shrub as low to the ground as you can get. Then, with a shovel, dig around until you expose the roots. Dig out the roots, being careful not to leave any roots in the soil.

If you don’t remove a bush properly, it’ll come back each year. Removing the root system entirely is the only way to ensure the plant doesn’t have a chance to grow back. You can also use natural weed killers or you can choose to suppress the area with landscaping fabric. Additionally, consider planting alternative, non-invasive vegetation to deter the return of thorn bushes.

If you are xeriscaping a lawn from scratch, your best bet for preparing the lawn is to work with a xeriscaping specialist in your area. The most common first step to making the transformation, however, will be to remove the turfgrass from your lawn. The subsequent steps will often include amending the soil to support new plants and installing low-drip or drip irrigation systems.

The Allen, MI homeowners’ guide to brush chipping services

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