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Generally, you do not need to drain your pool to convert it to a saltwater system. The main exception is if you have used an antibacterial agent containing polyhexamethylene biguanide to sanitize your pool, as these sanitation products do not mix well with saltwater systems. If this is the case, you will need to start fresh. You can either drain the pool or treat the existing water with a high dose of chlorine to remove the antibacterial agent. If you choose the chlorine treatment, wait several days to allow the chlorine to work before proceeding with the conversion. If you are unsure whether this applies to your pool, consult a pool technician.

Calcium lumps in a pool are calcium deposits that form when a pool's water parameters are not in the normal range. They can float around on the surface of the pool water, making it look and feel dirty. The most common causes of calcium lumps in pools are calcium hardness above 1,000 ppm, alkalinity over 120, and a pH over 7.8. Keeping your pool’s calcium levels, alkalinity, and pH levels within the normal, safe ranges is the best way to prevent calcium lumps and other problems, including damage to the pool surface.

Liquid chlorine is better for shock treatments or instances where you need to raise your chlorine levels quickly. Tablets are better for regular maintenance. Tablets take more time to dissolve but require less effort. You don’t need to measure out volume, and you can set them in a floater and let that do the work.

The depth of your pool depends on its intended use, the size of your lawn, and whether you opt for an in-ground or aboveground pool. Aboveground pools tend to be between four and six feet deep while in-ground pools range anywhere from three to eight feet. Permanent installations also have the option of shallow and deep ends.