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Unfaced wall insulation is easier to cut and install, making it the better choice for a DIY project. It’s also more affordable. But if it’s unfaced, you’ll likely need to add a vapor barrier to reach your desired R-value and efficiency, as it doesn’t offer any moisture barrier.

Faced insulation uses paper or foil to create a built-in barrier and doesn’t require an extra step. It’s also more fire-resistant and safe. But it’s quite a bit more expensive and a little bit harder to work with as a DIYer.

Adding insulation to ceilings is an excellent way to increase the energy efficiency of your home. If your home's layout is such that you need insulation in the ceilings rather than in the roof, it's likely that at least some insulation already exists in the space. However, each additional inch of insulation you can add boosts the R-value by between 2.2 and 4.2.

Several types of insulation are effective for crawl spaces, with spray foam and rigid foam boards being two of the best options. Closed-cell spray foam insulation is a strong choice because it effectively repels moisture, resists biological growth, seals the air, and provides excellent thermal protection, especially in hard-to-reach areas. Rigid foam insulation boards are another excellent material as they insulate well, resist water damage, and will not settle over time like fiberglass or cellulose.

If you need to insulate behind finished walls, the best option will likely be to have an insulation professional install blown-in insulation. The installation requires small holes cut in your wall, after which the installer can blow loose-fill insulation into the void. After the installation, you’ll have minor drywall patching, which shouldn’t cost more than $100. Compared to ripping down the existing drywall, using a different type of insulation, and replacing and finishing the drywall, this should save you hundreds or even thousands, depending on the size of the room you’re insulating.