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Yes, you should screw your flange to the subfloor, including cement. The best way to get this done is to predrill holes into the concrete using a hammer drill and a ¼-inch concrete bit. Be careful when you’re ready to bolt your flange down, as you can accidentally crack it. You can avoid this issue by not installing the screws too deep. Or, you can opt for a flange with a stainless steel ring so you don’t have to worry about cracking the plastic.

The water in your toilet tank refills after each flush. So if you see dirty water in the bowl, you should check the tank to see if it’s coming from there. A dirty toilet tank can be the result of sediment in the water itself—-after all, the water will sit in the tank between flushes and can cause the interior to change into a dingy color. Faulty toilet components, like an old flapper, corroded tank lever or chain, or damaged seals, can also lead to dirty water as the materials break down inside the tank. You can clean the toilet tank or change out the old parts to give it a fresh start.

Toilets typically connect to your main vent stack, a vertical pipe that runs through all finished levels of your home and exits through the roof. It’s located behind the walls, but if you have an unfinished basement or a utility closet, you may find a portion of it running the vertical length of the space. Some basement toilets use an air admittance valve instead, which is a small vent located in the wall directly behind the toilet that extends upward a few feet from the drain.

To drain a broken toilet, place towels or plastic sheeting around the base in case of splashing or overflowing. Next, shut off the toilet’s water supply, usually via a valve on the wall behind the toilet. Begin flushing the handle to remove as much water as possible from the tank and the bowl. Don’t flush the toilet if it’s clogged, though. From there, use a large sponge to soak up any remaining water and wring it over a bucket.