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There are two things you can do to make a fence replacement easier—but keep in mind that easier doesn’t mean better. First, you can use a jack or some other type of machinery to pull the post out of the ground. If that’s not available, a digging bar can help.

Second, you can backfill the hole with gravel rather than creating a concrete footing. Keep in mind, gravel is less secure. You should only use it if you’re installing a lightweight fence or have heavier, clay soil.

You’ll need to bury the garden fence about 1 foot underground. It’s tempting to save on materials by burying the fence just a couple of inches, but if you do so, determined pests will still be able to dig under the fence and access your plants. Burying your garden fence deep into the soil is an important step that allows you to attach a wire barrier to the fencing. 

Burrowing animals (like voles, moles, rabbits, and gophers) can’t dig or chew through this wiring, meaning that you’ll be keeping your prized petunias or your robust veggie garden from being eaten.

The lifespan of wire fencing heavily depends on factors like gauge, material, coating type, and environmental conditions. However, with proper maintenance, many wire fences last for 20 to 30 years. Coastal areas or regions with high rainfall may see reduced lifespans of 10 to 15 years due to increased corrosion risk.

When considering how much of a gap should be under a fence or gate, a good rule of thumb is to keep gaps between 2 and 5 inches tall. This allows for some ground clearance for the gate but still provides safety for children and pets, who shouldn’t be able to squeeze through a gap of that size.