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Yes, cold walls are a common indicator of poor or inadequate insulation, especially if the walls feel significantly colder than the air in the room. This suggests that heat from your furnace is escaping rather than being retained. The issue could be that the walls have no insulation, or that the existing insulation is old or has been damaged by water, moisture, or pests. Your best course of action is to hire a professional to investigate. An insulation contractor can determine if you need to add or replace insulation and can often perform the work without creating large holes in your drywall. If you suspect the problem might also be related to your heating system's performance, an HVAC technician can take a closer look.

According to a report from Energy.gov, radiant barrier installations can save between 5% and 10% on your energy bill each month that your HVAC cooling is in operation. That fact can mean savings of up to more than $325 per year for homes that experience frequent direct sunlight and high summer temperatures. 

Yes, basement insulation needs a vapor barrier due to its susceptibility to moisture seeping in from the outside of the house. You should install a moisture barrier before you install insulation or purchase insulation that comes prebuilt with a moisture barrier to avoid water damage in your insulation and costly mold and water remediation expenses. 

Unfaced wall insulation is easier to cut and install, making it the better choice for a DIY project. It’s also more affordable. But if it’s unfaced, you’ll likely need to add a vapor barrier to reach your desired R-value and efficiency, as it doesn’t offer any moisture barrier.

Faced insulation uses paper or foil to create a built-in barrier and doesn’t require an extra step. It’s also more fire-resistant and safe. But it’s quite a bit more expensive and a little bit harder to work with as a DIYer.