Question 1

How do I determine what size generator my house needs?

Accepted Answer

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To determine the right size generator for your house, you should calculate the total wattage of the appliances and devices you want to power during an outage. List all essential items, note their start-up wattages, and add them together.

Here are some typical wattage requirements for common appliances:

Refrigerator: 600 watts
Large dehumidifier: 700 watts
Large window air conditioner: 1,400 watts
Water heater: 3,000 to 4,500 watts
Electric furnace: 5,000 to 25,000 watts

A 7,500-watt generator might be sufficient for essentials like a refrigerator, freezer, well pump, and lighting circuits. However, for high-demand items like a water heater or furnace, a whole-home generator is a better choice. A portable generator may be enough if you only need to power a few critical items.

While home square footage can offer a rough estimate, it is not always a reliable indicator. For reference, here are some typical generator sizes based on square footage:

1,000 sq ft: 6–9 kW
1,500 sq ft: 7–10 kW
2,000 sq ft: 10–14 kW
2,500 sq ft: 12–16 kW
3,000 sq ft: 16–20 kW+

For the most accurate sizing, consult a professional who can calculate your home's peak and average power consumption and recommend the optimal generator.

Question 2

Do fireplaces help you save on heating bills?

Accepted Answer

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Fireplaces can theoretically help you save on heating bills if you lower the temperature throughout the rest of your home and heat only a single room that you occupy using the fireplace. However, in most cases, homeowners won’t save any money on heating bills. Gas and electric fireplace inserts could actually lead to a spike in your respective energy bills if you use them frequently, and if you don’t keep up with chimney maintenance and repairs, your traditional masonry fireplace could actually be a source of heat loss in the winter.

Question 3

How much does a home energy audit cost?

Accepted Answer

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A home energy audit costs about $420 on average, with prices ranging from $100 to $2,250 or more. The final cost depends on factors like your home's size, location, the thoroughness of the audit, and the specific tests performed. A basic Level 1 walk-through inspection typically costs between $150 and $200, while a comprehensive Level 3 audit with detailed testing and a report costs around $900. Homeowners may be able to use the 2022 Inflation Reduction Act’s Energy Efficient Home Improvement credit to cover up to $150 of the audit cost.

Costs for common individual tests include:

Blower door test: $350
Duct testing: $100
HERS test: $375
HERS certification: $200
Infrared imaging: $200

Costs for common individual tests include:

Blower door test: $350
Duct testing: $100
HERS test: $375
HERS certification: $200
Infrared imaging: $200

Question 4

How can I get the highest possible appraisal for my property?

Accepted Answer

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While some aspects of an appraisal, such as comparable properties nearby, are out of your control, there are several steps you can take to potentially increase your home's value. Make any necessary repairs and upgrades before the appraiser's visit, as they can only value what is currently part of the home, not its potential. Examples include renovating older areas, updating landscaping to boost curb appeal, and staging your home. You can also provide the appraiser with the cost of recent upgrades, which may increase your home's value by about 50% or more of what you paid for those improvements.

Question 5

How much energy do motion-sensor lights save?

Accepted Answer

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Motion-sensor lights use one watt while on standby and five watts while turned on. They’re usually on for one hour over a 24-hour period, bringing the total wattage to about 28 watts per day. LED lights use around 6.5 to 8 watts while on. If you leave an LED light on all night, with night ranging from 10 to 14 hours, you’re looking at using 65 to 112 watts a night. You can minimally cut your wattage in half by switching to a motion-sensor light.