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Some older homes have toilets in the basement to combat sewage backups. This type of toilet, also known as a Pittsburgh potty, acted as a safety valve over the incoming sewer line. If a line backed up, it would back up into the toilet because it was the lowest fixture in the home, keeping it out of sight and away from the finished areas of the house.

Basement toilets were also used by workers with messy jobs, like those who worked in coal mines or steel mills. This way, they could clean up and avoid tracking dirt through their home.

Ensuring your toilet will fit starts with measuring the rough-in, but there are a few other factors to consider. The toilet tank's height and the toilet's depth should fit comfortably within the bathroom’s current setup. When considering depth, look at the walking space around the toilet to ensure it fits in the bathroom.

When working on your bathroom floor tiling, you should always tile the floor first and then refit the toilet afterward. This has both practical and visual advantages—the tile will have a better seal, and the installation will look cleaner.

On the other hand, when you try to cut the tiles to fit around the toilet, you’re putting yourself at a disadvantage. It’s a lot more work, it’s hard to be precise, and mistakes or miscalculations can lead to future moisture damage to the tiling, grout, and subfloor.

Even though they’re modern-looking, easier to clean, can be hung at any height, and help save space compared to traditional toilets, wall-hung toilets have some downsides. They’re more expensive than standard toilets, sometimes by a few hundred dollars. They’re also difficult to install and may require major plumbing work to reroute the drain if the previous toilet was a floor-mount model.

This tight fit can make repairs more difficult. You’ll also have to consider where you can hang them and weight limit restrictions, so they may not be the best fit for every home.