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Unfaced wall insulation is easier to cut and install, making it the better choice for a DIY project. It’s also more affordable. But if it’s unfaced, you’ll likely need to add a vapor barrier to reach your desired R-value and efficiency, as it doesn’t offer any moisture barrier.

Faced insulation uses paper or foil to create a built-in barrier and doesn’t require an extra step. It’s also more fire-resistant and safe. But it’s quite a bit more expensive and a little bit harder to work with as a DIYer.

R-30 insulation is better for higher thermal resistance, but whether it’s "better" depends on the application. R-30 is much thicker and suited for areas like attics or floors in cold climates, where more insulation is required. R-13, on the other hand, is thinner and works well for 2x4 walls or milder climates where less insulation is sufficient. Choosing between R-13 and R-30 depends on the area being insulated and the climate. For example, R-30 provides more insulation but may not fit everywhere in your home.

Professionals can install a radiant barrier in a day or two, but DIY installation will take several days. The time it takes to install a radiant barrier depends largely on the size of the space and the installation method. Larger homes can take a pro two to three days to finish the job. It’s also quicker to lay foil over existing insulation.

The most affordable way to insulate behind unfinished walls is to install fiberglass batts or rolls. These total around $0.75 per linear foot, with the width matching the gaps between standard studs perfectly. However, it’s important to consider the R-value of your insulation and the climate in your area, as fiberglass insulation isn’t the best in terms of preventing heat transfer. Plus, the most affordable option may cost more on electricity bills over time. The most affordable way to insulate behind finished walls is to leave them up and use blown-in insulation to avoid drywall replacement.