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A scattering of leaves won’t pose a problem through the winter, but a thicker layer of leaves may not decompose before the first frost and can instead weigh down your grass and harbor mold or fungi. A thick layer of leaves also cuts off light and air that grass needs to grow. That’s why we suggest removing thick leaf layers within several days if possible. If your lawn goes dormant over the winter and snow has already caught up with you, then remove the leaves in early spring before your grass-growing season starts so your lawn can thrive.

While you can leave roots in the ground, if you don’t want the shrub to regrow again over time, it’s best not to leave any roots behind. Ensure you remove as much of the shrub as possible, including the root ball and any main roots you can see, to prevent new growth. Some gardeners opt for using a chemical treatment to prevent the stump from growing back, but this can kill beneficial microorganisms living in your soil.

Yes, you can hydroseed with a garden hose, but you’ll need a tank or other large vessel for mixing the slurry, then a pump to send the slurry through the hose for spraying. Making your own hydroseeding unit can work, but it’s not usually worth the effort and supplies unless you already have them.

Unless it only rains once in a blue moon where you live, you’re going to want water-loving plants in your garden bed or pot. A few ideas for plants that aren’t super fast-growing (meaning they’re good in pots or near foundations) and can handle a lot of standing water include: 

• Acorus (Sweet flag)

• Colocasia esculenta (Taro or elephant ear): In many climates, these are annuals, making them less desirable because you need to adjust the chain again after each replant.

• Equisetum scirpoides (Dwarf horsetail rush): non-dwarf varieties of horsetail are fast growers and can take over quickly.

• Juncus effusus (Curly rush)

• Osmunda regalis (Royal fern): Royal fern can grow quickly but can also handle being crowded, making them good container plants.